home > Phoenix Arms HP22A last round magazine hold open kit (hp22aloc).
Locks slide back after the last round is fired thru a specially designed kit. Prevents dry fire.
slug (for lrho/nrho)
new now anodize
Learn more about this product on this page.
starting at $8.80 each (list price $10*) UNAVAILABLE .reason: tooling put in self-storage caused by an unforeseen event.
$18.95 /set (list buy now
lrho side by side comparison (discontinued)
|Holds rounds||Component||Quick E-reload capable||Hammer always stay cocked||Flick safety to chamber||Reliability||Pull slide back after last round||Must buy one per mag||Requires cutting grinding||Install difficulty||price|
steel or brass round
see link above
|lrho set unavailable slide catcher round kit||9||aluminum/
|yes||yes||yes||yes||no||ready for two mag||no||easy||$34-$36
add'tnl slug $9.95
|10||plastic/metal||no||yes||yes||yes||yes||yes||no||between easy and hard||$10-$12 each
see link below
|10||metal/steel||yes, fastest||yes||yes||n/a, no field test (New theory suggest mod may increase frame strength, no more crack frame.)||no||no||yes||hard||$17-$22 each
|Follower hold open kit|
This kit is only made in limited quantities during the redesign phase. It's now made with half delrin or thermoset material. Reason is cost.
Magazine disconnect disabler shim/key (if included.) Features:
Some have reported that after 700rds you may crack the slide rail therefore this kit doesn't modify the pistol and your warrantee is likely covered by Phoenix. A modified pistol may void its warrantee. Simply unplug the mod kit from the pistol and your pistol is unchanged. Frame cracking is another issue. Check out our shock absorbing guide rod.
"they're a great gun if you don't abuse them don't dry fire it, I broke 2 firing pins doing so, and it dinged the chamber to where it
wouldn't reliably feed."
The kit is design to operate with the stock (un-mod safety) HP22 or HP22a or mod-safety or mod-mag disconnect.
You'll be amazed by the convenience the pistol has become for your leisure target practice once you have this kit. Easy to install by boys and girls alike.
If I have two magazines, do I need two followers, where do they install?
Yes. If you have two magazine, you'll
need two followers. The follower is inserted inside
the magazine from the bottom.
Does the kit hold the slide back after the last round is fired?
Yes. It will hold the slide back after the last
round. It's intended to prevent dry fire only. After the slide locks back after
the last round is fired, it will appear almost like a jam. Simply follow the procedure for clearing a
jam. By pulling the slide, engage the safety then dropping
I don't understand how this can work, can you explain?
A stainless steel rail embedded on the follower holds the slide open after the last round is fired. A dowel is fitted on top of the metal to help take on the impact.
section view. "M" shape anti-jam design.
Will this follower damage my pistol over time?
It's highly unlikely that it'll damage the part of the slide that strips a new round. That part (called the breech face) is made of case harden steel and more likely will crush the follower if the gun is ever tossed or dropped to the ground after the slide locks back. The breech face won't even show a scratch because of its superior strength over the follower.
What are the types of last round hold open for the Phoenix out there?
There are three versions for the Hp22.
Which mod kit is best?
The best one is probably the slug even though it holds 9 rounds. It's durable, solid and portable. If you happen to drop your pistol after the slide locks back, such could happen in a panic situation, a plastic follower isn't going to compare to an all metal slug. Metal parts often don't get squashed like a plastic part would. Slugs quickly installs, easy to remove. Installs easily by virtually anyone yet foolproof. Doesn't rust or seize. On certain kits, you don't have to pull the slide back a little after every last round.
Why can't I load more than 9 rounds, even before the mod? Why don't they give it more space for that 10th round?
The magazine was originally design to hold more than 10. Therefore, it should be a little easy to get the 10th round in there. The follower, if made of steel, allows it to hold more than 10. Since it's plastic, it now holds only 10 on purpose. Some magazine are noticeably bad ones which makes them hard to get that 10th round in. For those magazines, you might try plunging the follower down with a #2 pencil with the eraser end all the way down into the magazine. Keep plunging it as far as it will go with an aggressive rapid motion for about 1/4 of a minute. This often breaks it in. The 10th rounds should now load easily if this works. This could be caused by a piece of dirt or burs stuck on the follower from the factory or a bad follower or a bad base plate. The rapid motion clears the burs or seats the spring. If it's not caused by burs, a drop of oil may help.
IMPROPER INSTALLATION: If you can't load 10 rounds then it could be a sign of an improperly seated spring. This is bad news because the magazine grip could come loose from the vibration of live firing. This often will cause the spring, the grip, the follower and all rounds to come crashing down onto the floor. Some owners will usually want to blame this on a cheap pistol while that's not the case. The proper way to fix this is to take out the spring and go to step 3 below under Installation steps. But this could be tricky.
Other unrelated but important questions.
Is it safe to keep a round in the chamber on a phoenix arms hp22?
In our opinion, only if the hammer is fully un-cocked (not half-cocked) and either the main safety near the grip is engaged or the firing pin block is engaged. If you're likely to drop the pistol from a high location then use the firing pin block to stop the firing pin from striking the ammo. Be aware that the firing pin block is known to wear it out and could go limp suddenly. This could mean that it could lock you out in the middle of a shot or switch to fire when you don't want it to - but there's a fix, see How do I fix the firing pin block.
(Sidenote: We're not sure how high to drop the pistol from a high location onto a hard surface while its fully un-cocked to be able to ignite the primer. If you're unsure and want to be on the safe side then engaging the firing pin block is a good idea, especially when climbing a ladder/stairs or on a balcony. If the firing pin block is in good condition then engaging this switch alone (while fully un-cocked) should be okay.)
Safety tip 1: Always decock the hammer in a mechanical three-stage sequence as a habit of being safe. Engaging the firing pin block is the first of three stages. Since there have been many accidents involving decocking, the three-stage is built in to the Phoenix pistol partly for that purpose. *Make good use of it.* The one handed, last two stage decocking is a simple process but hard to explain in writing.
In our opinion, one hand decock is much safer because one hand is much more stable and easily controllable than with two hands. And because your right thumb can also act as a hammer block (buffer) while decocking.
Safety tip 2: Never decock the hammer or fiddle with the trigger while your other hand is in front of the barrel (loaded or not....) you may never know since the author of this page has been hit and hospitalized by not following this rule as a kid.
Does it hurt to dry fire phoenix arms hp22?
Yes. Even while the firing pin block engaged. However, many will agree that a few dry fires wouldn't hurt. Read the dent tip box below, right for more info.
How do I remove firing pin spring from the phoenix arms hp22?
Using the smallest SAE hex key you could find that'll fit snug, (we'll update the hex key size soon) simply unscrew the set-screw counter clockwise on the slide rear plate. Remove the plate and remove the firing pin and the firing pin spring by shaking them out. Make sure to clear debris from the set screw and make sure the hex key goes all the way in before twisting the key. Stop twisting the hex key if the screw isn't budging or if the hex key appears loose (or too much play, wiggle). You can ruin the tool or the screw if you force this tiny screw. Find a bigger size hex key and try again. If the screw looks dry, spray WD-40 then wait a few minutes then retry.
DRY FIRE: HOW TO DRY-FIRE PRACTICE. Dry firing is okay if:
† In order to get a real feel for trigger travel, simply place a balled up paper grocery bag or newspaper into a size of pinto bean then place it on the firing pin's rear part of the gun then dry fire without worry of metal wear. The hammer strikes the paper, but not the firing pin. WARNING Don't put live ammo in the chamber. Don't pick up a gun then dry fire without first visually confirming that the hammer is blocked. Don't forget to remove the paper when storing the gun away.
CAUTION: Don't dry fire while the firing pin block is engaged. The firing pin block system may wear out and could be dangerous.
Take down lever stuck. How do I remove the slide when the slide is severely locked up (a.k.a. severe lockup)?
With two magazine one on each hand, use the grip end of the magazine on both sides of the take down lever. Next, push the magazines onto the take down lever hard at the same time. While while at the same time, pushing the front end of the barrel into the frame (You won't need a third hand. Just press the barrel onto the carpet floor at an angle.) Stop pushing the barrel and the take-down lever when the barrel comes apart. If the magazine isn't strong enough, use two metal tools (not steel) with a square-end instead, making sure not to scratch the frame. The spring may be damaged in the process. This is something to be done by a professional, but it wouldn't hurt to try.
Severe lockup can occur from an improperly installed spring or it didn't have a mini guide rod. Many people will often skip an important step regarding the spring coil ending (which can prevent a severe lockup) when installing the spring. The instruction can be found inside the HP22(25) factory users manual or the guide rod installation manual.
Why is the firing pin block safety loose? How do I fix the firing pin block?
The symptom is when the gun won't fire after the first round or thereafter. This is because the firing pin block engages on its own during live fire. The user is baffled, believing the round is a dud when actually the firing pin block unexpectedly engages by gravity and vibration. This could be a hazard when this is your only life-support pistol. This could be spotted before the symptom shows up by recognizing that firing pin block switch is much loose or more flimsy than normal. The block switch shouldn't drastically wiggle when it's on FIRE. This is most likely cause by severe vibrations wearing out the firing pin block system in conjunction with a constant flicking of the switch, someone dry firing too many times with the switch engaged or an out-of-spec assembly to begin with. To fix this, remove the back plate with a hex key then use a flat-end needle or micro flat-end screw driver to the remove the firing pin block spring [diagram.] Once removed, bend the spring back to normal then reinstall. Inspect to make sure there isn't any more play. You won't likely find this spring for sale. There is a cell-phone video of one person showing how to do this on Youtube, but we don't have that link.
Finally, you may want to reduce the vibration or keep the the firing pin block switch from jiggling back and forth when you're going thru many shots. If it jiggles, temporary tape it up to keep it from jiggling while you go thru hundreds or thousands of rounds at one time. Some people will go all-out and super-glue this switch in permanently. But that could be dangerous because this is a drop safety. It keeps the firing pin from striking the primer when the pistol is dropped from a high location.
Fine print: You will get a "last round follower hold open" kit with one follower. The follower is the only thing you need to stop the slide back. Works only for one magazine. If you have extra magazine, you'll need extra followers. Please don't be confused with the "last round slide stop hold open" which uses only one traditional slide stop for all your magazines (which is not easy to install or available) as seen here. (http://hp22aparts.mypress.../hp22LRHO.html)
Modifying a safety: A safety that's been cut off could make the user feel as though it's a last round jam, often causing the slide to drop, but nonetheless, a safety mod will work great. A recommended compatible safety mod looks like this. A notch on the top of the safety like that can easily be done with a file.
High velocity ammo: Please avoid using high velocity ammo to help reduce slide speed.
Safety/reliability: This part hasn't been tested for over 500 rounds of simulation. The current design is built well with a fail-safe feature. They haven't yet been tested to see what happens when it fails at the end of it's long life. Therefore, users should follow safety guidelines outlined at the bottom of the page. However, the brass slug is considered to be more robust.
(These in depth instructions are updated regularly with
safety precautions and troubleshooting not included instruction manual. It's
recommend for follower kit owners to read.)
(1) nail (1-1/4"x 1/16", note: does not work well with any nails thicker than this)
(1) 22lr round
how to install a feeder into a Phoenix magazine video. Update to this video: You will have to successfully load ten round to complete the installation process.
What it does and doesn't do: Locks slide back after the last round is fired. Doesn't lock back similar on what you find in a typical pistol. To do that you need the other "last round slide stop hold open" (http://hp22aparts.mypress.onl..../hp22LRHO.html) with some hacksaw skills. That kit may not be available for sale.
What it's used for: Prevents dry fire. Easy chambering a round at the range. Designed with the female user in mind.
Magazine disconnect shim/key instructions: (not included) The instructions to install the magazine disconnect disabler shim does not come with the kit's user manual.
|Won't load more than 8 - 9 rounds.||Magazine spring isn't aligned and seated into the base plate.||Remove the spring and base plate and reinstall. Make sure several coils are pushed into the base plate prior to inserting the spring into the mag. * See step 3.|
|The magazine grip won't stay locked.||Magazine spring isn't aligned and seated into the base plate.||Remove the spring and base plate and reinstall. Make sure coil is pushed into the base plate prior to putting it into the mag*|
|Failure-to-feed, follower isn't feeding ammo.||Follower is binding or weak spring. Also see 'not feeding last round.'||Remove the follower and reinstall. Try machine oil or silicone spray on the inner magazine inner walls to smooth out dryness, dirt or rust. Caution: remove most traces of sitting oil once evenly coated to prevent severe dust collecting.|
|Slide won't lock back after last round is fired.||Spring is weak. Spring installed wrong.||Reverse the magazine spring and try again. See step 2 above** Try using a new magazine spring.|
|Slide won't lock back after last round is fired.||Worn follower.||Metal followers last much longer. Try our metal embed followers.|
|Can't engage the factory safety after last round.||User may be unfamiliar with the way it works.||Try pulling the slide back harder and hold it there for a second or two then engage the safety switch. Countless people have snipped off a small portion of the safety to prevent any problems.|
|Not feeding last round.||Worn, cracked follower.||Stop using follower and contact seller for a warrantee replacement.|
|Can't remove the magazine grip.||New magazines are typically harder to take apart.||Try pushing the grip parallel to the barrel a little harder. Take out the nail and continue pushing once the grip budges. Then pull the grip out.|
|Can't remove the follower.||Either magazine or follower may be distorted.||Use two sticks from both side of the magazine to push out the follower. example drawing|
|Ammo overshoot barrel then gets stuck pointing to sky.||Magazine may be defective.||Try bending the magazine feed lips (bullet guide lips) inward tighter so it gets a tighter grip on the ammo. If bent too tight the ammo may not chamber.|
|It doesn't work right and appears unsafe.||defective product||Free lifetime replacement for safety defects.|
* In the factory assembly process, after the magazine is fully assembled, a rod (a #2 pencil) is used to plunge the follower all the way down the magazine well to lock the grip and align the spring (or to seat them.) This is a one-time process.
** The spring should face with the spring's highest point to the rear of the follower to help the slide lock back reliably.
(There are no reported installation problems from any users so far, except that one person had difficulty removing the grip. The lrho slugs don't have such problems. )
1 . Shoot with a normal stance. Which is at eye level at arm's length and horizontal, or parallel to the surface of the Earth. Eye protection is recommended.
2 . Bystanders should be behind the shooter, not beside the shooter or beside the gun being fired.
3. Shoot with a standard velocity ammo on the last round. Avoid using high velocity ammo on the last round, or avoid using hyper/high velocity altogether.
4 . Don't use a follower that shows signs of cracking, distorted or fails to feed.
5 . Always decock the hammer in a three stage sequence whenever there is a live round in the chamber. Engaging the firing pin block is the first of three stage.
5 . Always wear goggles. In rare cases, if you're didn't get hit by the flying broken hammer, a bullet bounce back, a stray shell, you could get hit by the safety switch or the grip when the frame splits in half.
Manual cycling safety warnings:
Disabled magazine disconnect personal safety warnings:
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